I hope you can find out what is causing it.
Quoting MyGiftsFromGod:
I don't think it's old. I could be wrong. How old is too old? How do I know that if I buy new thread it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for too long at the store? I am going to go buy some today and try that. If it doesn't work and I'm still breaking thread, you can find me at the insane asylum.
Be sure it's a good quality thread (cheap stuff will break easier and leave crazy lint buildup) as well as matching the thread to the needle. You should not use a heavy-duty thread in a tiny needle (it will not fit through the eye properly, so it will fray and break) nor should you probably use a super-fine thread in a large needle.
Also, be sure the machines are clean and well-oiled and the bobbins are wound properly. And check the tension too.
Just a thought - another possibility, though this would not occur below the plate, is that the tension is being thrown off in the process of threading. It's essential to lift the presser foot when threading the upper portion of the machine. It opens up the tension plates so the thread can settle properly between them.
Dual Duty XP is a little on the fuzzy side, but a pretty good thread. I'm fairly certain Walmart carries it. Of my 3 machines, two are center-position (but do a left offset that works fine) and the third is set to the left. None of them have problems with rubbing; I think any zigzag-capable machine should be designed so that the needle won't rub in any position.
It might help to know more - where exactly is the thread breaking? Before passing through the needle? After? It is the upper thread rather than the bobbin thread that's breaking, right?
I've been sewing for years and just a few years ago found out some really good info about thread breaking. When you said that it seems to get really thin just before breaking I believe is a solid clue about what is going on. Can you tell me what you are sewing? is it always the same thing or are you sewing different weights of fabric and different thicknesses? The reason I ask is this - If you are sewing a heavy duty area (like a lot of our diaper sewing is), the needle needs to be at least a 14 and it will be better if it is a 16. The reason is that the thread rides in the little groove at the side or back of your needle and if it is too small for the type of thread and weight of the fabric, it will actually shred the thread twists, getting thinner and thinner until it breaks. Almost always if it is the thread getting thinner and thinner, it is a matter of too small a needle for the fabric weight and the thread weight. Also, something that helps me is to use a ball point sewing needle because it pushes the fibers apart on the fabric you are sewing instead of cutting a hole in the fabric like a "sharp" style needle does. If you are sewing denim, PUL for diapers, diaper inserts from many layers of fabric, etc. go to a size 16 needle and a size 40 or 50 weight thread. I think Walmart actually carries the Coats and Clark cotton thread for quilting, but if you are sewing diapers you want to get a 100% polyester thread to prevent wicking and to increase its strength. Hope this helps. Also, you might google the Bernina or Huskvarna sites or any of those, (maybe even the Singer one) for helpful tutorials and videos about the type of problem you are having.
Quoting xtwistedxlovex:Just a thought - another possibility, though this would not occur below the plate, is that the
tension is being thrown off in the process of threading. It's essential
to lift the presser foot when threading the upper portion of the
machine. It opens up the tension plates so the thread can settle
properly between them.Dual Duty XP is a little on the fuzzy side, but a pretty good thread. I'm fairly certain Walmart carries it. Of my 3 machines, two are center-position (but do a left offset that works fine) and the third is set to the left. None of them have problems with rubbing; I think any zigzag-capable machine should be designed so that the needle won't rub in any position.
It might help to know more - where exactly is the thread breaking? Before passing through the needle? After? It is the upper thread rather than the bobbin thread that's breaking, right?
Quoting perfect01:I've been sewing for years and just a few years ago found out some really good info about thread breaking. When you said that it seems to get really thin just before breaking I believe is a solid clue about what is going on. Can you tell me what you are sewing? is it always the same thing or are you sewing different weights of fabric and different thicknesses? The reason I ask is this - If you are sewing a heavy duty area (like a lot of our diaper sewing is), the needle needs to be at least a 14 and it will be better if it is a 16. The reason is that the thread rides in the little groove at the side or back of your needle and if it is too small for the type of thread and weight of the fabric, it will actually shred the thread twists, getting thinner and thinner until it breaks. Almost always if it is the thread getting thinner and thinner, it is a matter of too small a needle for the fabric weight and the thread weight. Also, something that helps me is to use a ball point sewing needle because it pushes the fibers apart on the fabric you are sewing instead of cutting a hole in the fabric like a "sharp" style needle does. If you are sewing denim, PUL for diapers, diaper inserts from many layers of fabric, etc. go to a size 16 needle and a size 40 or 50 weight thread. I think Walmart actually carries the Coats and Clark cotton thread for quilting, but if you are sewing diapers you want to get a 100% polyester thread to prevent wicking and to increase its strength. Hope this helps. Also, you might google the Bernina or Huskvarna sites or any of those, (maybe even the Singer one) for helpful tutorials and videos about the type of problem you are having.
im going to attempt to make a wetbag...
- MyGiftsFromGod
on Nov. 19, 2012 at 1:47 AM