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Leg gussets

Posted by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 4:11 PM
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Ok so I am looking for a good tutorial or video on how to do leg gussets on a turned and topstiched pocket diaper. I keep finding them for foe covers but I can find one for t&t. I need some thing that is good because I just can't visualize it this time.
Thanks
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by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 4:11 PM
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Replies (1-10):
perfect01
by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:01 PM

Let me look see if I can find the one I first learned from.  Or if I just improvised on my own.  The way I do them is I attach the 1/4" elastic to the straight edge of the gusset, on the laminate side, using the 3 step zigzag stitch.  (I use Lastin because I don't like the braided wicking wet outside the leg).  Then I turn the elastic and straight edge into the laminate side and topstitch the edge down so the elastic is encased and won't be on L/O's legs.  I then baste the gusset to the outer layer of the diaper with the right sides of the fabrics together.  Sew your inner layer as you normally would, working around the leg openings slowly, feeling to make sure the gusset is laying flat away from the seam.  Add your leg opening and back elastic.  Turn and topstitch, but make sure your leg elastic is getting encased as you topstitch.  For me, it works best to do the leg encasements first, then go back and work around the wings and back, then the wings and the front.  Wow, this is a lot to try to make sense from.  I'm going to go look.

perfect01
by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:16 PM

Here is one for internal leg gussets. 

Still looking for the other kind.

Sarita33
by Group Owner on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:41 PM
^^^ Yup she is the leg gusset queen :D I on the other hand am not lol
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Ma2Liam
by Diva In Training on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM
I was hoping you would see this. Ok so I can kinda picture what you are saying. When you turn right sides out us the gusset along the seam between the two layers? Do you just leave it there or do you tack it down a bit? Also I am not sure what basting is?

Quoting perfect01:

Let me look see if I can find the one I first learned from.  Or if I just improvised on my own.  The way I do them is I attach the 1/4" elastic to the straight edge of the gusset, on the laminate side, using the 3 step zigzag stitch.  (I use Lastin because I don't like the braided wicking wet outside the leg).  Then I turn the elastic and straight edge into the laminate side and topstitch the edge down so the elastic is encased and won't be on L/O's legs.  I then baste the gusset to the outer layer of the diaper with the right sides of the fabrics together.  Sew your inner layer as you normally would, working around the leg openings slowly, feeling to make sure the gusset is laying flat away from the seam.  Add your leg opening and back elastic.  Turn and topstitch, but make sure your leg elastic is getting encased as you topstitch.  For me, it works best to do the leg encasements first, then go back and work around the wings and back, then the wings and the front.  Wow, this is a lot to try to make sense from.  I'm going to go look.

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Ma2Liam
by Diva In Training on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:51 PM
Yeah I was hoping she would reply. I also am not good at gussets. Hence needing a good tutorial :)

Quoting Sarita33:

^^^ Yup she is the leg gusset queen :D I on the other hand am not lol
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Ma2Liam
by Diva In Training on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:53 PM
I have done this one before but she uses prefolds and I am not sure how she folds them? I wanted something a little stronger to hold ebf poos in.

Quoting perfect01:

Here is one for internal leg gussets. 

Still looking for the other kind.

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perfect01
by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 6:55 PM

I can't find anything either.  I think I figured it out on my own.  So, I am going to try to do a tutorial and take pictures.  I don't have a video camera, so  can't do that.  I don't make pocket diapers, so I will have to show the gusset method on one of the styles I make.  I'll see if I can get it done tonight when things calm down some.

perfect01
by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 7:14 PM

When you turn it right side out, yes the gusset is sticking out of the seam.  As I sew and top stitch, I roll in the outer layer toward the gusset forming my encasement from the outer fabric.  Here is a picture of one done.  Look on the left.  Where it looks like an encasement has been made, that is actually the outer seam rolled in to the width of the elastic, then stitched down sewing right in the ditch of the seam.  My pattern actually has you cut the inner piece narrower  by about 3/4" so that when you turn it  there is no extra bulk in the middle of the inner layer and by turning the outside toward the inside, it still gives it plenty of room for a gusset.  If you don't want to make the center narrower (which on a pocket you wouldn't), cut your gusset 3/8" deeper than normal and just turn your gusset in and stitch your encasement.

The basting is using a longer stitch to tack something in place.  So, you just lay your gusset on your outer fabric (right sides together and the curved edge out) and take longer stitches just inside the 1/4" seam allowance (that way they don't show when you stitch the diaper layers together and turn it).

Quoting Ma2Liam:

I was hoping you would see this. Ok so I can kinda picture what you are saying. When you turn right sides out us the gusset along the seam between the two layers? Do you just leave it there or do you tack it down a bit? Also I am not sure what basting is?

Quoting perfect01:

Let me look see if I can find the one I first learned from.  Or if I just improvised on my own.  The way I do them is I attach the 1/4" elastic to the straight edge of the gusset, on the laminate side, using the 3 step zigzag stitch.  (I use Lastin because I don't like the braided wicking wet outside the leg).  Then I turn the elastic and straight edge into the laminate side and topstitch the edge down so the elastic is encased and won't be on L/O's legs.  I then baste the gusset to the outer layer of the diaper with the right sides of the fabrics together.  Sew your inner layer as you normally would, working around the leg openings slowly, feeling to make sure the gusset is laying flat away from the seam.  Add your leg opening and back elastic.  Turn and topstitch, but make sure your leg elastic is getting encased as you topstitch.  For me, it works best to do the leg encasements first, then go back and work around the wings and back, then the wings and the front.  Wow, this is a lot to try to make sense from.  I'm going to go look.


Ma2Liam
by Diva In Training on Apr. 8, 2013 at 7:22 PM
Just to see if I am thinking right is the elastic casing the stitch line that is on the right of the edge. It tacks the gusset down and encases the elastic or is there 2 stitch lines?

Quoting perfect01:

When you turn it right side out, yes the gusset is sticking out of the seam.  As I sew and top stitch, I roll in the outer layer toward the gusset forming my encasement from the outer fabric.  Here is a picture of one done.  Look on the left.  Where it looks like an encasement has been made, that is actually the outer seam rolled in to the width of the elastic, then stitched down sewing right in the ditch of the seam.  My pattern actually has you cut the inner piece narrower  by about 3/4" so that when you turn it  there is no extra bulk in the middle of the inner layer and by turning the outside toward the inside, it still gives it plenty of room for a gusset.  If you don't want to make the center narrower (which on a pocket you wouldn't), cut your gusset 3/8" deeper than normal and just turn your gusset in and stitch your encasement.

The basting is using a longer stitch to tack something in place.  So, you just lay your gusset on your outer fabric (right sides together and the curved edge out) and take longer stitches just inside the 1/4" seam allowance (that way they don't show when you stitch the diaper layers together and turn it).

Quoting Ma2Liam:

I was hoping you would see this. Ok so I can kinda picture what you are saying. When you turn right sides out us the gusset along the seam between the two layers? Do you just leave it there or do you tack it down a bit? Also I am not sure what basting is?



Quoting perfect01:

Let me look see if I can find the one I first learned from.  Or if I just improvised on my own.  The way I do them is I attach the 1/4" elastic to the straight edge of the gusset, on the laminate side, using the 3 step zigzag stitch.  (I use Lastin because I don't like the braided wicking wet outside the leg).  Then I turn the elastic and straight edge into the laminate side and topstitch the edge down so the elastic is encased and won't be on L/O's legs.  I then baste the gusset to the outer layer of the diaper with the right sides of the fabrics together.  Sew your inner layer as you normally would, working around the leg openings slowly, feeling to make sure the gusset is laying flat away from the seam.  Add your leg opening and back elastic.  Turn and topstitch, but make sure your leg elastic is getting encased as you topstitch.  For me, it works best to do the leg encasements first, then go back and work around the wings and back, then the wings and the front.  Wow, this is a lot to try to make sense from.  I'm going to go look.


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perfect01
by on Apr. 8, 2013 at 7:30 PM

Yes, the stitch line on the right is the elastic casing & it taks the gusset down.  1 row of stitching.

Quoting Ma2Liam:

Just to see if I am thinking right is the elastic casing the stitch line that is on the right of the edge. It tacks the gusset down and encases the elastic or is there 2 stitch lines?

Quoting perfect01:

When you turn it right side out, yes the gusset is sticking out of the seam.  As I sew and top stitch, I roll in the outer layer toward the gusset forming my encasement from the outer fabric.  Here is a picture of one done.  Look on the left.  Where it looks like an encasement has been made, that is actually the outer seam rolled in to the width of the elastic, then stitched down sewing right in the ditch of the seam.  My pattern actually has you cut the inner piece narrower  by about 3/4" so that when you turn it  there is no extra bulk in the middle of the inner layer and by turning the outside toward the inside, it still gives it plenty of room for a gusset.  If you don't want to make the center narrower (which on a pocket you wouldn't), cut your gusset 3/8" deeper than normal and just turn your gusset in and stitch your encasement.

The basting is using a longer stitch to tack something in place.  So, you just lay your gusset on your outer fabric (right sides together and the curved edge out) and take longer stitches just inside the 1/4" seam allowance (that way they don't show when you stitch the diaper layers together and turn it).

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